On the eastern edge of Switzerland, near the famous winter resort of Saint Moritz. The Bernina massif is one of the great classics among the ascents to the 4000 of the alpine arc. Biancograt is its most elegant and prestigious ascent line. At the same time requires a certain familiarity with the technique of climbing ice ax and crampons and a good physical training.
Program
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1st Day
Meeting point in Pontresina, ascent of the Valley of Roseg, overnight refuge Coaz (2610m)
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2nd Day
Ascent of Piz Gluschaint (3594m), overnight at refuge Coaz.
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3rd Day
Traverse under the piz Aguangliouls, overnight stay at the Tschierva refuge (2600m).
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4th Day
Ascent to Piz Bernina (4049m) passing through the Biancograt ridge, overnight at Refuge Marco e Rosa (3597m).
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5th Day
Crossing the bellavista, piz Palu (3901m), Diavolezza cable car, Mortertash, transfer by train to Pontresina.
Technical requirements
There are no technical difficulties but good training is required for mountain walking and a good confidence with the progression with ice axes and crampons.
The program can be modified or interrupted by the mountain guide due to the insufficient technical level of the participants or for meteorological reasons.
Equipment
Possibility to rent: helmet, high altitude boots, harness and crampons.
- Harness
- Ice ax (max length 60 cm)
- Classic anti-bot crampons
- High mountain boots (for crampons)
- Helmet
Clothing:
- Sunglasses for high mountain / glacier
- Cap
- Buff – Foulard
- High mountain gloves
- Breathable T-shirt
- Fiber turtleneck sweater
- Windstopper or fleece jacket
- Waterproof jacket (ex: Gore-tex, pac-lite, conduit…)
- Mountain pants in schoeller
- Mountain socks
- Gaiters
Inside the backpack [40/50 lt maximum]:
- One fiber T-shirt
- Thermal pants
- A pair of mountain socks
- Ski mask
- Extra light gloves
- A headlamp with new batteries
- Personal pharmacy kit (compeed patch, aspirin, high protection sunscreen, ...)
- Waterproof overpants (ex: Gore-tex, pac lite, conduit, k-way)
- Camera
- 1 lt bottle or Thermos
- Paper towels
- Sleeping bag liner
- Case with toothbrush and toothpaste
- Sun hat with visor
Included
Alpine guide's support, common use material.
NOT Included
Room and board in hut and expenses of the guide and everything not specified in the item "Included".
In case of modification of the itinerary due to causes external to the organization (adverse weather conditions, technical level of the participants, etc.) the unforeseen expenses will be debited to the participants.
Any missing material may be provided by Mountain Evolution based on availability or rented.
Cartography:
- Swiss map, Piz Bernina 1:25000
Bibliography:
- CAI – TCI collana guida ai monti d’Italia: Bernina
Tourism Office:
- Pontresina Tourist Information
- Address: Engadin St. Moritz CH-7504 Pontresina
- Phone: +41 (0) 81 838 83 00
- Fax: +41 (0) 81 838 83 10
- email: pontresina@estm.ch
- web: www.engadin.stmoritz.ch
For informations and registration:
